Nagaland didn’t become part of India until 1963 and, owing to its
remote position bordering Assam and Myanmar, doesn’t feature regularly
on many an Indian itinerary. During the second world war, however, the
capital city Kohima was the site of a famous frontier battle between the
Allies and the Japanese troops. As a result, the people of Nagaland
have a great fondness for the efficiency of the Brits and many speak
perfect English.
The landscape is mountainous, dramatic and teeming with wildlife.
The food – give or take the odd blow-your-head-off Naga chilli – was so
unique and tasty that they have their own annual Masterchef competition
at the Hornbill Festival. Other cultural highlights include
demonstrations of a traditional stone-throwing game, ceremonial
chanting, warrior dances, plays performed in various Naga dialects and
the greased-bamboo climbing competition – but my highlight was
witnessing the stone pulling at Viswema which, apparently, only happens
roughly once every seven years.
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